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Thread: Knocking noise

  1. #1
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    Knocking noise

    Model Number: 25355682400
    Brand: Sears Kenmore
    Age: 6-10 years

    I just replaced the Adapter Defrost Control on my side-by-side refridgerator because it stopped cooling and a Sears Repairman said this was the problem. It is cooling again-- However, now it makes a rapid ticking sound followed by a loud knock every 10 seconds! All connections and screws are tight. What is this? I am very frustrated.

  2. #2
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Where does the noise appear to be coming from?
    Ryan
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  3. #3
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    I can FEEL and hear the knock coming from around the ADC box (with the housing/ cover back in place) and/ or around the vent that is right behind it.

  4. #4
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Did you adaptive defrost control box include the wiring harness to update it to the newer style box? If so, then I would go back over the instructions that came with the kit to make sure you installed it correctly. The box in the back left hand corner is an air damper, typically it opens and closes just when the refrigerator section is called for cold air. So it should only make noise for a couple of seconds when it is opening or closing and then you shouldn't hearing anything. It sounds like the damper is continually trying to open or close and that is what is making the noise. The damper could be broken or wired wrong. Check it out and let me know what you find.

    This is the air damper assembly for your model refrigerator:

    Air Damper Control Assembly - 241600902
    Ryan
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  5. #5
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    Thanks, Ryan. I went back over the instructions and opened the cover back up and retraced my steps- best I can tell, it is wired correctly. With the cover off, I plugged the 'fridge back in and watched the damper as it went through a few cycles of the ticking and knock. The whole back section of the assembly moved with the knock- so it looks like it is something wrong in the damper. How difficult is it for an amateur to change out the air damper assembly? Is this what it sounds like to you? Thanks

  6. #6
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    What was the original problem you were having with the refrigerator before you replaced the control board? If the damper worked ok before you installed the control board, then it wouldn't be very likely that it would fail immediately after the new board was installed. Check to make sure the wiring is going to the correct switch on the damper, or possibly try moving it to the other switch on the damper.
    Ryan
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  7. #7
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    I tried moving it to the other switch- it still knocked The original problem was the 'fridge gradually lost its cool. The day it definately went out- the 'fridge was warm and so was the top of the freezer. After emptying out the fridge and freezer, the lower half of the freezer started to cool down--- but only to 'fridge temp. So we stored the milk in the freezer (which did NOT freeze) until the Sears man came out several days later and manually defrosted the coils and told me it was the ADC that needed to be replaced.

  8. #8
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    One other thing you could try would be to install the old ADC board back in the fridge to see if the damper still makes the noise with the old board. Obviously you don't want to leave that board in there because it won't go through the automatic defrost cycle, but it might help you narrow down whether the control board is bad or the damper is bad.


    I am showing this is the ADC control for your model (just to make sure you got the correct part):

    Defrost Control Board Kit - 5303918476
    Ryan
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  9. #9
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    By the way, I don't know if this makes a difference (or if this is what it is supposed to do) but, I held my hand over the damper/ vent while it was running. The air that initially blew out was warmer ("room-air" temp), then gradually got cooler, then cold just as the knock happens. This happens with each cycle. Also, when I changed out the ADC and new wiring harness, the new harness does not have a plug that I think goes to the damper like the old one does. It is kind of rounded with a blue and an orange wire that goes to it. This is the correct replacement part for the model fridge, but I am wandering if that lack of a connection has anything to do with the knock.

  10. #10
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    We did that too. And it doesn't make that sound. But-- see the other entry I entered on the forum a minute ago about the "stray" connector.

  11. #11
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Does the old board open and close the damper properly? Because it could not make any sounds if it isn't moving the damper.

    The new ADC control and wiring can vary from your original. You just have to follow the instruction sheet to make sure it is installed properly.

    The refrigerator section get its cold air from the freezer. When the damper opens up, it allows cold air from the freezer section into the refrig section. Depending on how long the compressor has been running for, the air can take a little while before it gets cold.
    Ryan
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  12. #12
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    I'm not sure- How would I know if the old one was opening and closing the damper?
    I do know this-- when the Sears guy came, the fridge was warm (freezer cool, not cold). He defrosted the coils behind a panel in the freezer and told me "that would buy me couple of days until I could replace the ADC". The fridge started getting warm again after a few days, so replace the ADC that same day it started getting warm again. After I replaced the ADC, the fridge is cool and I even removed the freezer panel and defrosted the coils with a hairdryer again (although, this time it did not have much frost on them.) I did everything as the directions said. But it still knocks and I am very frustrated with it! Should I call the Sears guy back out?

  13. #13
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Once the refrigerator section gets warm enough, the air damper should open to cool down the refrigerator section. Once it has cooled down, the damper should close.

    If you can't get it figured out, you may have to have a technician look at it. Let us know what you find either way.
    Ryan
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  14. #14
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    So, I replaced the ADC and then I replaced the Damper. It runs, cools better and no longer makes the knocking noise. But I don't think it is cooling enough. The 'fridge cool dial is set on 6 (We used to keep it set on 4 and it did just fine....). What ELSE could this be. now!!???

  15. #15
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    So the new damper took care of your clicking noise? Do you have a thermometer you can put in the refrigerator and freezer sections?
    Ryan
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  16. #16
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    I don't think I have a thermometer- but the butter is soft in the fridge and the icecream is getting soft in the freezer. The damper is blowing air in the fridge, but its cool- not cold. Could it be a thermostat or does it need coolant?

  17. #17
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    You will need to remove the panel in the freezer section and take a look at the frost pattern on the evaporator coil. You need to see if it is all frosted up, half covered in frost, ect. If you can post up a picture of it, that would be great.
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  18. #18
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    here is the frost pattern

  19. #19
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    It looks like you still have a defrost problem. There should not be that much frost on the coil. You will need to check the defrost thermostat (while cold) and defrost heater for continuity. I would replace the defrost thermostat either way, because they are common to fail, and they can often act up intermittently. You will need to manually defrost the evaporator coil to get it caught back up. Make sure the hole at the bottom that goes between the freezer and fridge section is free of frost too. It is common to frost up on that model.

    This is the defrost heater and defrost thermostat for you model:

    Defrost Thermostat - 5303918214

    Defrost Heater Kit - 5303918255
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