I have replaced everything on my dishwasher!

[Mat]

Model Number: KUDI24SEWH1
Brand: KitchenAid
Age: More than 10 years

Hi,
I am stumped…My KitchenAid Dishwasher Model KUDI24SEWH1 is about 17 years old. I replaced the cover for the touchpad 3 years ago the original was cracking from use and age. It has worked perfectly since the day we bought it. A few weeks ago I turned it on and it filled as usual. About 5 minutes later I noticed the motor had not kicked in. I went over everything and it seemed fine except the water would not drain. After some research I ran a diagnostic, both factory and service. The Thermal fuse checked out. The touch panel seemed ok. During the diagnostic I could hear the clicks as it went through the abbreviated cycle. The heater was working. The dispenser, wash and rinse, were doing what they should do. My initial breakdown of the motor assembly top to bottom was overall fine. I did notice some cracks in the impeller and other parts. (I have a pool and have replaced 4 pump motors over the years), same as my pool but a lot smaller. The motor itself was spinning freely. No jams at all. During the breakdown I looked for anything that could have jammed the workings up and it was all clean. I checked the connections and put it back together. Given the age I decided to replace the pump and motor assembly. The interior is stainless and looked just fine. I should mention I saw no leaks at all during all of this. The install was effortless. Only took about an hour or so start to finish. Started it up and everything was just as before. Decided to replace the main control board. I checked the latch and seemed fine. Hooked everything up. Started it up, same as before, it filled and heard the click lights were fine and nothing. Would hit cancel and could hear the click and a minute or two later would hear the click that it had finished. I have checked continuity on the thermostat dispenser, fill valve, latch and float valve. After all that it fills with water and goes through all the motions. The heater heats up when it should but that brand new motor assembly just is not getting power. The last thing I did was replace the Main control board. When I did that I went ahead and checked as many of the connections including the vent. Do you have any suggestions or know of something I am not checking? P.S. Also replaced the touch control board.

[Doc Ryan]

Just to confirm, the pump motor is working and spraying water during the wash portion of the cycle?

[Mat]

No Sir. There in lies the rub. The entire motor pump assembly is brand new. I have double and triple checked all of the connections and they are good. You can hear the click after it fills up a few seconds later but nothing happens. The wash light is on. If I let it go through the cycle the heating unit comes on, the dispenser dispenses. I ran an entire service diagnostic with the front panel off. If I push the cancel button once about 5 seconds I hear a click from the panel. It's sending the message but no power to the motor so it won't drain. But the cancel light will stay on. About 2 or 3 minutes later the light turns off just as if it drained.

[Doc Ryan]

Looking at the schematic, there are not that many components that could cause the problem. There is the door switch, TCO (thermal cut off aka thermal fuse), main control board, pump motor, and wiring in the circuit. So if you haven't already I would test the door switch and test the wiring for continuity and make sure the electrical plugs on the motor and control board are both making good connection.

[Mat]

Understood, I checked the fuse once but I repeat that one. On the door switch, I checked it once but I am sort of iffy on switches. I never had a meter till this all happened. I'll get to work on it right now. If ya got any "meter hints for dummies", feel free to throw some this way. Wish me luck...

[Doc Ryan]

What make and model multimeter are you using?

[Mat]

What make and model multimeter are you using?

It is a ETEKCITY Measure UP Model #: MSR-R500

[Doc Ryan]

The instructions in the video below are the same for your dishwasher fuse.

[Mat]

Is that good or bad?

[Doc Ryan]

Your meter? It looks like it should work fine, just set it to the continuity setting where the meter beeps when the two probes are touched together.

[Mat]

Got it. Watched the video to make sure I was doing it correctly. Will do it now and get back. Also going to check for continuity between the motor and control board. Be back when I'm done with results.

[Doc Ryan]

Sounds good

[Mat]

It's 8:30 PM. I just finished. I tried every connection I could find. I had continuity on every component I know of. I tracked and tested every wire from the panel to the motor. That process in and of itself required testing everything from start to finish. When I finished testing I went over every junction and connection. I checked all the grounds. In my research within this forum alone, there have been instances when you suggested replacing a part that had checked out OK but the symptoms were pointing in the direction of a certain part. The suggestions you offered carried about a 90% success rate. All I can say given what has been replaced, do you think it could be the thermostat of some part like the fill valve that has both a sensor along with a mechanical function. I've gotten the big stuff. We are not looking at a life altering amount with the smaller items but if I start guessing it can add up. What would be the next logical thing to check out or do or replace in your estimation?. I'll go nuts if I give up at this point.I'll check back tomorrow. Right now I have to clean up all my stuff.

Up today. Didn't realize it was Friday when posting last night. Thought of something today. Would it really goof things up if I went around,(hot wired) each component one by one? I don't. want to ruin the two boards I replaced if they could be damaged buy trying something like that. Needless to say if the boards can handle that it would certainly home in on the component it that is the problem. I won't be offended if you tell me that's nuts!

[Doc Ryan]

Hi Mat,

Parts like the door switch and thermal fuse can be temporarily bypassed to see if they are the cause of your problem. Obviously you don't want to run the dishwasher for more than a minute or two like this. Below is the wash schematic for your dishwasher.

(Click to enlarge)

[Mat]

Great, I'll try it right now and get back to ya. Wish me luck.

[Mat]

Well I just tried both and it did as befor, filled and went to wash herd the clicks. Put it in diagnostic mode the despenser did what it was supposed to and the heater came on.What do you think?

[Mat]

I am looking at the schematics. Could the operating thermostat or the overfill or vent be involved with the motor not getting the power?

I saw in the in the wiring diagram that the fill valve should read between 695-995 Resistance on my meter. I checked and the numbers were 1121. I also had noticed when I tested the latch and fuse that when the washer filled on a regular cycle not the diagnostic that it filled to just below the heating element. I have never paid attention to the depth of the water, ever. On an initial fill should the element be completely submerged? Last but not least, I figured I would double check the overfill. The continuity was fine as before however when I was disconnecting the leads my finger hit the part that trips the censer. I could hear the click. I did notice it was sluggish when I tripped it and checked it both open and closed. All seemed OK but I don't know how freely it should move.

[Doc Ryan]

Hi Mat,

I traced the electrical part in the schematic below for the washer cycle. The thermostat and overfill should not be involved with the motor.

(click to enlarge)

[Mat]

Golly Ryan,
The only thing left is the fill valve and that doesn't even show up in the wash schematic. Best guess for other parts I might replace?

[Doc Ryan]

The fill valve also wouldn't relate to your problem. The water isn't supposed to touch the element when it fills, the water gets sprayed onto the element during the cycle. What process did you use for testing the wiring?