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Thread: Same old problem - reefer warm, freezer cold - further testing - what now?

  1. #1

    Same old problem - reefer warm, freezer cold - further testing - what now?

    Model Number: MFF2557HEW
    Brand: Maytag
    Age: 6-10 years

    Periodically, the refrigerator gets warm, while the freezer remains cold. I have done the manual defrosting and it seems to work for a long time (months), but the problem eventually comes back. This time, I rented a refrigerator and my wife is away for a week. So the following is what I have been doing after watching a number of online videos.

    Before replacing the control board, I tried the diagnostic mode. The first test showed as a failure (Defrost Thermostat Diagnostics). I then replaced the control board with a new control board "Jazz" P/N 67006740 directly from Maytag. I redid the test, the result "Test 1 OPEN" (still a failure). The freezer was partially iced up, so when I cut out the "Defrost Terminator" (the defrost thermostat) and placed it in the freezer of a rental refrigerator and packed it into snow ice, after one hour, it showed as still open. At that point, I ordered a new defrost thermostat from partsdr.com.

    This morning, I retested the frozen thermostat and it tested "CLOSED" (Zero ohms indicating that it was closed). While encased in ice, I respliced the defrost thermostat back into the circuit, redid Test 1 (Defrost Thermostat Diagnostics) and it was now closed. I had a voltmeter connected to the wiring that would connect to the heater and the voltage would measure about 23 volts. When I ran Test 1, then the voltage would show as 123 volts. When I cycled it, it would change between the 23 and 110 volts. This all seems normal and functioning.

    I checked for continuity of the heater and it shows 0 ohms.

    What should I be checking for at this point.

  2. #2
    Just my luck. The part arrived a few minutes ago. The UPS driver noted that the Next Day Air Pak had been taped up to cover a hole in the bag. However, when I opened the bag, the thermostat's wires had damage. There is a long brown wire which had the insulation pierced in 3 different places. Each damaged section was about 4 inches apart from each other. The short orange wire was damaged about 2 inches from the thermostat.

    I called PartsDR and they are shipping a replacement part. I would have tried a splice, but there wasn't enough undamaged wire to work with.

    I am waiting for a response on my problem described above. Thank you in advance.

  3. #3
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    The defrost heater should ohm out at approx 28 ohms if it is good.

    The defrost thermostat can often act up intermittently, so if it failed a test once and then worked again the next time that would be a good indication that the defrost thermostat needs to be replaced. After you replace the defrost thermostat you will need to fully defrost the evaporator coil in the freezer and if there are no problem then the frost should not come back. Let us know how it works once you get the thermostat replaced.
    Ryan

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