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Thread: [FIXED] Frigidaire Control board - replacing the old part with the new wiring harness

  1. #1

    [FIXED] Frigidaire Control board - replacing the old part with the new wiring harness

    Model Number: FRS26LH5DS0
    Brand: Frigidaire
    Age: 6-10 years

    Greetings all,
    I just had a neutral line outage on my cabin that fries several light bulbs, my oven control panel and the Temp control board on my Frigidaire.
    The new part is a redesigned board and comes with new wiring. I am an DYI guy - this cabin is on a lake with boat only access, so this makes getting service and repairs done difficult/costly.
    So as a novice, I wanted to see if anybody has done this swap before and also fine out what I need to look out for.

    The compressor runs and cools great - coils ice over in seconds, but the evap fan doesn't run so nothing gets cool other than the bottom of the freezer.
    I tested the fan off of the unit already. I have ordered the board and a new switch - the one that clips to the copper pipe above the actual coils beneath the evap fan.
    Any advice is welcome! Oh, BTW, the burn out is obvious - had soot on the outside of the board bad - and a little disk looking thing about as big around as a dime had a hole blown out of it - board all black for about an inch around...

  2. #2
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Yes, the adaptive defrost control board on your refrigerator sends power to the evaporator fan motor. I have seen it before on these where a power surge burns the control board and stops sending power to the evaporator fan motor. They have re-designed the control board, and the new board comes with a wire harness that has to be replaced at the same time. Replacing it is pretty simple if you have basic wiring skills. They include an instruction sheet telling you what to do, but basically you remove the old control board and wire harness and put the new control board in and hook the new wire harness up to the control board, cold controls, and damper. I think about the only thing that gets wired up differently than before is the damper. The other part you are talking about is the defrost thermostat, and if you can see a hole blown in the side of it, you will definitely need to replace that at the same time. You just have to splice the two wires to install the new one. Make sure the refrigerator is unplugged while you install the new parts. Let us know how the repair goes for you and if you have any other questions.

    These are the parts for your refrigerator:

    Defrost Control Board Kit - 5303918476


    Defrost Thermostat - 5303918214
    Ryan

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  3. #3
    Thanks Doc,
    I should get the board from you guys tomorrow - headed up to the lake on Friday for the Holiday - hoping to get her up and running before my 9 guests arrive for the Labor Day weekend. The Defrost Thermostat appears to be fine - no sign of damage at all. I'll let you know how it goes.

  4. #4
    Okay, I am happy to report that I was able to install the new control board on Friday, hours before ten guests arrived at the lake house for the Holiday weekend. I had everybody prepared to bring a bunch of coolers and ice, but thankfully they weren't needed. The toughest part about this installation was putting everything back in place and getting the covers back on. Since replacement board was an updated part with a revised wiring harness, it requires replacement of most of the wires in the top of the refrigerator compartment - but nothing beyond there - no fishing wires through the walls or anything like that. Everything you need other than tools are included in the kit. All you need int he way of tools is a flat head screw driver to aide with some clips and a nut driver. The instruction sheet was great, but a bit small for a 52 year old's eyes. A magnifying glass did the trick though as photos of the parts were pretty small.
    My advice is to disconnect the old connections and connect the new ONE AT A TIME so that you don't lose track of what color wire connects where. The toughest connection to switch was the damper control motor because it required the damper control housing to be completely extracted from the styrofoam block that it resides in. I lost track of how the refrigerator thermostat probe was in the process, so I had to guess upon reinstallation. I left the tip of it hanging down behind the damper enclosure in the back corner of the top of the refrigerator. I also replaced the thermostat defrost switch in the freezer while I was at it - that could not have been simpler. IT took the refrigerator several hours to get completely cool again as it had been emptied and open for a week in a warm house (We turn the AC setting to 80 when we're gone). Everything worked beautifully!! To replace this refrigerator would have required hauling it down 73 steps,loading it onto a boat and ferrying it 2 miles to the boat ramp to load it in my JEEP. THe repair was MUCH easier and MUCH cheaper than that would have been. I would do it again at my city home in a heart beat, It is not a difficult job if you are careful to disconnect and connect one wire at a time. Getting the cover back on and all the wires tucked in is the most difficult part of the entire procedure.
    I am very please that I went with the DIY repair.

  5. #5
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Thanks for the feedback! I have updated the status of your thread to FIXED. It sounds like your repair was much easier that hauling the refrigerator up and down 73 steps.
    Ryan

    PartsDr.com
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