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Thread: Dryer won't turn on in heat settings replaced high limit thermostats and elements

  1. #1

    Dryer won't turn on in heat settings replaced high limit thermostats and elements

    Model Number: AED4475TQ1
    Brand: Admiral
    Age: 6-10 years

    I used the dryer the other day on the low timed heat cycle and it tumbled but at the end of the cycle, the clothes were still damp. There apparently was no heat. After checking I realized the dryer will not turn on at all if it's in a heat cycle with an exception. The timer switch works from, if you were looking at it like a clock, 10 to 4, which includes the last 15 minutes of the auto sense high heat cycle and the low heat timed cycle. There is no heat, but the dryer tumbles and blows out a good exhaust. If you attempt to move the dial to any other part of the timer it simply doesn't turn on. There's no sound, just no power.

    After checking some repair blogs I attempted to check the heater thermostats with a multimeter. The upper thermostat connector post broke off. Since the dryer was around 10 yrs. old I decided to go ahead and replace the heating element and thermostats that are on the heating element. It's possible I didn't need to change out the parts, I didn't see any break in the coil and they all tested at having continuity but they were all pretty cheap and the back of the dryer was open anyway.

    After replacing those however, there's been no change. I checked the blower box thermal fuse and there's continuity. I opened the blower housing below to make sure there wasn't any large pieces of lint causing a clog. I couldn't get it open fully but what I could see was clean, just a couple small pieces of lint.

    I don't know where to go from here. Many thanks for any input. Grandma's getting cranky that she can't do laundry so please help!

  2. #2
    Doc
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    713
    See the attachment for the tech sheet.

    Sounds like a problem with the timer.
    Place the time in a position where it will not start.
    Then measure from the C contact (black) to the B contact (blue).
    It should be 0 ohms.

    Use the most sensitive meter scale.
    Also short the meter leads tiogether before starting so you can see if there is a zero offset in the meter.

    The timer is common to both the heatyer and the motor.

  3. #3

    We'll check that out.

    I did a quick check of the contacts and it appears you're right. My husband found a video for opening up the timer and checking to see if it can be repaired Don't know where we'd be if not for people like you who are willing to help out. Thanks.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by pal5510 View Post
    I did a quick check of the contacts and it appears you're right. My husband found a video for opening up the timer and checking to see if it can be repaired Don't know where we'd be if not for people like you who are willing to help out. Thanks.
    We opened the timer up and didn't see burning of any note. But the contacts you asked me to check, B & C, didn't hit when the dial turned. On further inspection they're pretty pitted. If you manually pushed them together you could get a beep from the meter. Looks like it would need a new timer and at $70.00 or more, it might be a better idea to bite the bullet and get a new unit in the event that wasn't the only problem. I've had a blast learning about electronics and dryer repair and I appreciate your assistance.

    Patti

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