Model Number: JJW2430DS00
Brand: Jenn-Air
Age: 1-5 years
I have a JENN AIR in wall oven JJW2430DS00 that is giving an F2/E1 error code. I have determined it is coming from the left touchpad area. Is there any other option than an $800.00 touch pad assy? Oven is currently not usable due to error.
Sorry but I cannot be much help here as I cannot find any tech data on this unit.
Have you tried removing power from the unit to see if it will reset?
Looking at the parts it looks like the keyboard is the touch sensitive type.
These are a pain in the you know what when they are use in locations where steam and grease can contaminate them.
I would remove the keyboard and give it a good cleaning with isopropyl alcohol, just be sure that the alcohol has all evaporated off befor reinstalling.
Also clean/check the connectors between the control board and keyboard.
Also check/clean any connections to the frame/ground.
Replacing the keyboard is always a gamble unless the keys can be checked with a meter and you would need tech info to do this.
If it is a touchpad then checking it is not possible.
So it is the most likely cause but it could also be a control board problem.
A Google search of this error code only takes you to suggestions of shutting down and restarting after a few minutes. Then CALL for support. This is nice but some of us who want to figure out further than a CTRL+ALT+DEL suggestion, we go to PARTS DR for answers. I've used this site and ordered replacement parts here and have $AVED allot.
Here's what I did after watching some YouTube videos regarding the code and how to get into the control panel.
Ultimately, I needed to get into the control panel to check for any loose connections and/or cleanup any dirt/moisture/grease build ups.
I'm no electronics expert but I can discern which and what parts performs, so I don't have any hesitation on pulling parts out (just be extra careful)
Once the control panel is exposed I noticed that the ribbon connector between the glass panel and the electronics board easily popped out of its connection, so thats what F2E1 is referring to. So I aligned the male and female connectors and pressed on for a tighter connection.
I also make sure any other unsoldered parts are not loose.
I think this is a known issue by the manufacturer and suspiciously another way for them to get the SUPPORT CALL.
An easy fix is to add a thin layer of material that will press on that connector once the enclosure is reapplied. Something I will definitely apply should this issue re-occurs.Attached are collage pictures of the steps I performed to get to the control panel.
Good Luck and DO TURN OFF THAT POWER SOURCE.
fdrof2
#dadfixedit
Thank you @fdrof2. I had similar issue and your solution worked for me. Thanks for the detailed instructions.
@fdrof2
Thank you so much for posting this. Had the exact error on our microwave/oven combo. Followed the instructions and found the ribbon cable connector under the plastic behind the touch panel wasn't seated.
After reseating, I turned the breaker over and tested successfully. While reassembling the error and beep came back. The ribbon fell out again! I put two long pieces of electrical tape over the ribbon cable to the end of the board. Fingers crossed this keeps it going.
Any other suggestions?Originally Posted by fdrof2
A Google search of this error code only takes you to suggestions of shutting down and restarting after a few minutes. Then CALL for support. This is nice but some of us who want to figure out further than a CTRL+ALT+DEL suggestion, we go to PARTS DR for answers. I've used this site and ordered replacement parts here and have $AVED allot.
Here's what I did after watching some YouTube videos regarding the code and how to get into the control panel.
Ultimately, I needed to get into the control panel to check for any loose connections and/or cleanup any dirt/moisture/grease build ups.
I'm no electronics expert but I can discern which and what parts performs, so I don't have any hesitation on pulling parts out (just be extra careful)
Once the control panel is exposed I noticed that the ribbon connector between the glass panel and the electronics board easily popped out of its connection, so thats what F2E1 is referring to. So I aligned the male and female connectors and pressed on for a tighter connection.
I also make sure any other unsoldered parts are not loose.
I think this is a known issue by the manufacturer and suspiciously another way for them to get the SUPPORT CALL.
An easy fix is to add a thin layer of material that will press on that connector once the enclosure is reapplied. Something I will definitely apply should this issue re-occurs.Attached are collage pictures of the steps I performed to get to the control panel.
Good Luck and DO TURN OFF THAT POWER SOURCE.
fdrof2
#dadfixedit
Last edited by ntheaux; 12-07-2021 at 06:56 PM.
I have a slightly different model but everything is pretty much the same. I’m missing a step the gold shielding on mine is more of a fabric that a metal piece and appears to be attached to the board below. I didn’t want to rip that apart. Is that where the orange board you show in the picture?
Just another followup - the part under the gold shield I wasn’t sure how to remove. My husband look at it and sure enough that’s the part that needed to be cleaned and reattached. Mine is a double oven model JJW3830DS00.
I have the exact same problem. Occurred in the middle of the night last night. I reset as the factory solution says and no go.
I have removed the control panel and exposed the exact layout in the pictures above posted by fdrof2.
I am going to clean and check for loose wires then I will report back if there is a success.
Right now replacement of this board is $1400. No thanks.
Update to the above, I did exactly that cleaned and checked for loose wires and nothing changed. Still the same issue.
I also reached out to several computer board appliance companies and all said they didn't work on this issue and had no solution.
Seem like a waste but I ended up buying a replacement front panel off ebay for $800 and now she works fine.
Doesn't look like there is an easy solution when you get this error other than replacing the front panel.
Stuck Key JennAir microwave F2/E1 code. can always get temp fix for a few days.
I have a model JMC2430DP01 with same problem. Manufactured July 2018.
First time it happened it was after cleaning people cleaned house. I figured they sprayed something that change the capacitance of the front glass.
Errors were only on the left side of panel as determined trying panel during the 2-3 second gap after clearing.
I Cleaned glass with soap&water, then alcohol. till all parts seemed to work. fixed it for a few months.
then it happedn again. This time while checking panel and actually starting microwave for few seconds. I got new error.
Power inverter bad. $800 and new inverter and Magnetron from repair place recommended by JannAir and still same error message.
Another$200 and replace control board. Now it worked for a month or so, then stuck key came back.
After cleaning and heating front and back of panel with heat gun, I could get it to work for a few days to weeks at a time.
Assuming that the heat somehow helped, I tried placing a small pin ball light bulb behind the panel to keep it warm. Seemed to work but also only few day.
I tried increasing voltage and therefore heat to bulb to see if this helped. Also also eventully went gives stuck key. Still at loss to explain.
But If I heat panel from the inside and the glass from outside, It will work for a few days.
Wife getting tired of me trying. may have to by new panel...
Don't waste anymoe time or money. Get the new panel.
Mine has been working flawless since I installed it. (Hope I dont jinks it)
I did have an issue where it was wigging out every once and awhile. I disconnected from the internet and now its perfectly fine.
Good Luck.
I discovered this heating fix (albeit temporary) as well. I used a hair dyer on the front / left side of the panel for a few minutes. Rebooted (by resetting circuit breaker) and as you said worked for a few more days. That being said, I'm in the process of trying another "work around". A youtuber indicted that if you go in and then out of demo mode (found in the tools menu), that will prevent the error messages from popping up. The left keys still won't work but at least no errors. In my setup, I don't need the left keys to work the oven so that would be a good solution for me. In the process of testing, I will report back. Thank you all for the comments/suggestions. My wife is also getting tired of me tinkering but the panel now is up to $1,200 and I'm balking. Also, it seems like this an extremally common issue for Jenn-Air and it feels like the appropriate course of action for a "high-end" appliance manufacture to do a recall or at least offer free replacements (outside of warranty). This has occurred on both our wall-oven and our Jenn-Air microwave. SO call it $6k worth of appliances.
FDROF2 is definitely on the right track here. Specifically, the F2E1 stuck key error is caused by oxidation in the low profile connector he identified. These are very low voltage, low current signals and the connector contacts are highly susceptible to oxidation, which forms in a humid environent like an oven or microwave. They should have been gold plated, but even Jennaire tries to cut costs. I've done a fair amount of connector failure analysis in my career and I can tell you they justified using something other than gold by saying the single mate cycle is a gas tight interface and therefore won't oxidize. Guess again, Jennaire. Also, the constant opening and closing the microwave door can cause what is called fretting corrosion. This is where micro-vibrations, over time, pock the contacts and wear through the plating, allowing moisture in and causing rust. By reseating the connector (it just pops off, and presses back together), we are wearing away the corrosion and allowing electrical contact. The pattern will repeat itself again, so just be prepared. I'm reposting the picture to show how the top portion just pops off the green board. It wasn't all that clear in FDROF2's picture so I edited it a little. I have to be honest and say that I originally did not even understand what he was showing and independently I popped off that connector and replaced it again. The stuck key error went away. So I went back and re-read the post and realized he was saying to do what I did. This is my second occurance of this error, by the way. When it happens again, I may use some kind of electrical grease on the contacts to keep moisture out.
Registered just to add my two cents. Out of warranty and got the infamous f2e1 on my jennair oven. The right side of the touch pad is unresponsive to touch. And I followed all the “solutions” I could find online: power cycling, demo mode, etc.
One interesting thing I noticed ever since we’ve got this unit with our new build house was that, at night, when temperatures get colder, we’d notice the oven light would be turned on in the morning. Although our home never goes below 67°.The oven light button is on the right panel. So I figure there must’ve been some electrical issue from the factory. I thought it was a weird quirk but didn’t think much of it. Until now, I’m faced with a $1400 repair quote. Jennair needs to issue a recall for this stupidly expensive junk
Last edited by buuzaa; 10-30-2023 at 10:19 PM.
So just tried the heating method and it seems to have done the trick (for now). I heated up the glass hot-ish to the touch but not burning hot, using a hairdryer for a couple mins and now the buttons respond to touch now, and no more f2e1 error. Seems like there must be some kind of adhesive that the capacitive panel behind the glass is using that doesn’t respond well to temperature fluctuations. Heating it is likely softening it up and making the contact with the glass better, until it cools/dries and contracts again? We’ll see. Jennair get your act together and put out a fix to this without ripping consumers out of $1400 to needlessly replace the entire control panel
I agree, the sandwich of glass, adhesive, circuit board has a factory lamination issue that is heat sensitive. I used a paint stripper heat gun, but on the circuit board side instead of the glass. It lasted about a week, and now reccurs every couple days. And usually in the morning after a night of cooling. Rather than going down to the basement every time, I installed a momentary off button using the blue power wire going to the panel. That resets the error and it lasts a couple days. Another idea is to leave the microwave door cracked open at night. The light may provide enough heat to keep the panel warm enough to prevent capacitive layer contraction. IÂ’ll try that for a few days and report back.
I spoke too soon and the error returned only a couple hours after I posted about heating method working. I’m giving up because even the power cycle method doesn’t work for me - the error returns within a few mins of doing a power cycle… losing hope
When I did my heating, I did it from the circuit board side. Not the glass side. When I did it that way, the glass heated up on the other side anyway. Maybe that will help. After the heating method, sometimes just clearing the error returns functionality. It didn't do that before. As I said, I used a paint stripper, not a hair dryer. Pretty sure I was able to attain higher temperatures that way. Do the heating GRADUALLY so you don't overheat isolated spots causing damage. Keep an eye on the circuit board components for signs of overheating. I've called Jennaire about this directly and they have sent me a new panel twice now. They send it directly to the house. To be warranted, they want an appliance repair company to do the install. Last time they charged me $140 for that. About 3 weeks ago Jennaire sent me the second panel after the first one failed after 3 years. I have not yet installed that new one, except to just try it out. It worked, then I put it back in the box to continue my journey of DIY repair discovery with this boat anchor. You might have to butter them up a bit, by saying you "love their high end products and want to keep your unit, but this failure really seems premature and seems to be quite common from the research I've done. Is there anything you can do to allow me to keep using my Jennaire?" Their number is 1-800-536-6247. Hope that helps.
I have also discovered that if you hold down any two keys for about 45 seconds, you can reproduce the error. I've repeated this experiment several times with reliability. So, there are a couple keys that thinks they're being pressed when they are not. Since capacitive technology depends on a charge crossing a dielectric gap, I'd assume a stuck set of keys would indicate too little clearance somewhere in the sandwich. Just some thoughts.
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