[FIXED] Help with Large Burner replacement...

[vbtalent]

Model Number: jbp79aw1aa
Brand: GE
Age: More than 10 years

I have an older stove with a bad right front 9" burner that I've replaced but I'm still unable to successfully get the stove working.

I purchased a GE #WB30T10099 element and I thought I had successfully replaced the unit. While doing the repair one of the wire ends broke off, which I repaired. I took pictures of the element before I pulled it and replaced the wires but the new burner was slightly different than the new burner, where there was a new/different jumper I believe. After replacing the burner the stove had the same problem, it looked like it was going to work, the switch seemed to work and the burner light lit up, but the burner itself was not working.

So after some further reading on the internet, some were saying that if the burner gets nuked so might the surface Limit switch. So I purchased a switch (WB21X36771) and replaced it. The switch was an easy install, and the directions were clear and I double checked my work. When I plugged the stove back in, it tripped the breaker immediately! I removed the "New" Limit switch and replaced with the old one and the stove works the same as it did before replacing the Limit switch, no 9" burner but also no breaker issue.

Can I check voltages with a test meter, at the switch and at the burner to try and identify if I have a wire crossed or are is there a wiring diagram for the burner or other suggestions for identifying the problem... any help would be much appreciated.

VB,

[Doc Ryan]

When replacing these burners, sometimes the limiter on the element has been changed and two of the wires have to be connected in different locations. To fix your problem, make sure to match up the labeled location of the wires (1a, 1b, 2a, 2b) from the original element to the same labeled location on the new element. The video below explains the differences starting around 2:45 in the video.

[vbtalent]

Thank you for the reply Ryan.

Now that the element has been changed I don't have reference to(1a, 1b, 2a, 2b). Is there a way to test the switch on the back panel or for voltage/grnd where it connects to the element?

[Doc Ryan]

The hot surface light wires are usually a smaller gauge wire, so you might be able to identify them that way. The hot surface light wires usually connect to the 1b and 2b locations.

[vbtalent]

Is there a way to test the infinite switch (WB21X36771) to see if its good/bad?

Knowing that might help me isolate which part is the problem...

Also, regarding the video, which is excellent by the way, since the element I have is a dual element sharing a Common then I would assume that each element would be supplied 110v each, is that a correct assumption?

VB,

[Doc Ryan]

These elements normally operate on 220-240V power on each heating coil. The infinite switches are harder to test. Have you tested the element as we show in the video?

[vbtalent]

These elements normally operate on 220-240V power on each heating coil. The infinite switches are harder to test. Have you tested the element as we show in the video?

Sorry for the delay in responding... been a busy week.

So, I grabbed the original element and performed the test as was described in the video, frankly it looks like it's OK unless I did it wrong (see images). Both measurements would have been made from the P1 connection to each element.

[vbtalent]

I also made a note of the terminal identifications as the original element used letters and not numbers, could you help identify what the terminal mapping from old to new should be? All of the terminals are the same size... so I'm not certain how to identify 1a,1b,2a,2b.

[Doc Ryan]

Your ohm test results look good.

Unfortunately, I don't have a way to determine the terminal mapping. You could try testing the limiter to see which terminals have continuity. That might help you narrow down if they are different.

[vbtalent]

Your ohm test results look good.

Unfortunately, I don't have a way to determine the terminal mapping. You could try testing the limiter to see which terminals have continuity. That might help you narrow down if they are different.

I also think the ohm results looks good.. I think that is telling me that the element itself is still good, is that a valid assessment? Does that also mean that the limiter on the element is good?

If so, then I'm thinking my problem isn't the element.. is that also a valid assessment?

VB,

[Doc Ryan]

I also think the ohm results looks good.. I think that is telling me that the element itself is still good, is that a valid assessment?

Yes

Does that also mean that the limiter on the element is good?

No

If so, then I'm thinking my problem isn't the element.. is that also a valid assessment?

My guess is that the problem isn't the element. My guess is that the wires to the limiter are not connected to the correct locations.

[vbtalent]

My guess is that the problem isn't the element. My guess is that the wires to the limiter are not connected to the correct locations.

Just a little more back ground on this.. the dual element stopped working, so I was assuming it was the element itself that stopped working. But now after testing the element following your video, I think we're are landing on its possibly the limiter that was the problem and not the element itself, would that be a correct statement?

So, when I replaced the element, you're thinking I may not have wired correctly, very possible for sure since the elements were labeled differently. My problem now is how do I get back to a starting point to replace the new element since I may have a wire crossed?

Is there a way I can tell which wire from the Limiter switch goes to which terminal on the new element or how to test for that?

VB,

[Doc Ryan]

It sounds like you may need to get a technician to help you if you don't know how the original burner was wired.

[vbtalent]

I realize its been a while, but I wanted to close the loop on this.

I called a service tech to come out and take a look at the unit, he told me it had a bad burner on it, even though it was just replaced, so I knew he didn't know what he was doing.

However, he un-mounted the limiter switch from the panel to get a part number directly from it, put it back in, and the burner started working! He didn't unplug it, just unbolted it from the stove to read the numbers.

From this I know that the burner itself was installed correctly, and the wiring is also correct.

The problem is the Limiter itself, the stove has been working ever since.

I'm planning on replacing the Limiter if I can find a factory part for the exact one that comes out of it.

VB,

[Doc Ryan]

Thank you for the update. I have updated this thread to FIXED. The limiter is only sold as part of the burner assembly from GE.