[FIXED] Kenmore Washer Hot Water Line Vibrating

[Fifty150]

Model Number: 110.27087604
Brand: Sears Kenmore
Age: More than 10 years

My washing machine has two cycles where it takes in water.

Presoak is a low flow, and it is fine. No problems.

When the machine needs to fill, the flex hose vibrates and shakes the plumbing system.

No problem with cold water cycles, such as when the machine fills with cold water for the rinse cycle.

If I turn on any other hot water faucet in the house, the vibrating stops. This leads me to believe that there is an issue with pressure. Because pressure is allowed to escape via the open faucet.

I have disconnected the hose feeding the washing machine, and the valve that it is connected to is fine. Turns on and off. Water flows freely. No vibrating. None of the faucets in the rest of the house have any problems.


I believe that the issue is from the internal plumbing system of the washing machine. Perhaps there is debris such as lint obstructing the free flow of incoming hot water. Maybe there is a problem with pressure. Or one of the electronically controlled valves is not opening fully. It could be the control board malfunction and not controlling the valve to open all the way.


Has anyone had similar conditions?

[Doc Ryan]

What is the model number from the tag on the washer? https://partsdr.com/model-number-loc...ashing-machine

[Fifty150]

What is the model number from the tag on the washer? https://partsdr.com/model-number-loc...ashing-machine

Doc Ryan, thanks for your reply.




I have ordered a water inlet valve and new hoses. I am hoping that will work.

[Fifty150]

What is the model number from the tag on the washer? https://partsdr.com/model-number-loc...ashing-machine

I tried to attach an image of the sticker on the machine.

[Doc Ryan]

A new water inlet will likely fix the problem. Let me know what you find.

Water Inlet Valve - W10372095 (PD00003002)

[Fifty150]

An expensive part.


I just wonder what actually went wrong. Wondering if the problem could be isolated. Are the valves sticking? Are the motor actuators which control the valves failing? Could it be the wiring harness?



Just wondering if I should save any pieces of the old part, or if it could be rehabbed. Maybe the valve body unit is okay, and all that I have to do is pop on some new actuator Motos. Or if that wiring harness really needs to be thrown away. Maybe I can save the harness for future use? What if the actuator motors and the harness are fine? Then maybe I can find a valve body from a used machine.


Just random thoughts from a guy who hates to throw things away.

[Doc Ryan]

I have updated the status of this thread to FIXED.

From my understanding, the valves can fail multiple ways. The electrical solenoids can get weak or fail completely. Internally the plunger and seal can corrode and get stuck open or closed.

I don't think the wiring really goes bad. This particular one comes with a new harness because they made a design change to the style of electrical connectors used on the part.

The problem with trying to take apart and fix these valves is that often times they are sealed from the factory in a way that does not allow them to be serviced. And, even if you can service it, you risk the valve leaking which is why the manufactures most likely do not want people trying to service them.

I always try to think about it this way. If you saved yourself $100 but flooded your house and caused $50,000 in water damage, then you didn't really come out ahead.

Long story short, I would toss the old parts.

[Fifty150]

Doc Ryan,

Thanks for all of your help.